I often get asked about which serums to use with microneedling as well as after microneedling as it can be quite confusing as to which serums to use, and exactly when to use them to see maximum benefits.

What is microneedling?

Microneedling is a minimally invasive cosmetic procedure which involves using fine needles which tiny punctures in the skin’s surface. Roller Noir by Nannette de Gaspe works to create controlled “micro-injury” which stimulates skin’s natural healing processes making it produce more collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin are very important for skin firmness and softness. This repair process leads to the reduction in the appearance of wrinkles, scars, and many other skin imperfections.

Typically, you carry out microneedling for 4-6 sessions spaced 4-6 weeks apart, followed by maintaining the benefits every 3-6 months. The use of at-home microneedling devices can lead to visible improvements usually within 4-6 months.

So, let’s look at the science of the healing process of skin after microneedling and which serums to use after microneedling.

Haemorrhage Phase

This occurs within the first ten minutes after microneedling. In this phase, blood, full of nutrients and inflammatory factors, is rushing to reach all the microchannels created. These inflammatory factors such as serotonin and adrenaline, work to support clotting and skin healing.

During these first few minutes, use with tepid water or DoSe Hyaluronic Acid Serum which contains high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to target the multiple layers of injured cells.

Inflammatory Phase

This phase occurs between one to four days after microneedling. During this phase, platelets (tiny fragments of cells responsible for clotting) release cytokines and growth factors to help skin’s healing and to regulate inflammation. In this phase, specific types of white blood cells are also released to keep skin free from infection. In addition to all of this, fibroblasts, which manufacture collagen, are also released. Skin may be slightly peeling or flaky, and the face  may become slightly swollen.

In this phase, you can use gentle rinse-off cleansers such as DoSe Daily Cleanser, alcohol-free toners, DoSe Hyaluronic Acid Serum, and an antioxidant moisturiser such as DoSe Daily Moisturiser.  Put the Hyaluronic Acid Serum in the fridge for an extra soothing experience.

If you are experiencing flaky skin, do not use chemical exfoliants such as azelaic acid, nor physical exfoliants such as facial scrubs or grains. Use a wet face flannel or wash cloth.

Proliferation and Fibroblastic Phase

In this phase, usually from day 4 to 14, the collagen producing cells (fibroblasts) are producing growth factors and new skin cells. Whilst these fibroblasts are busy sending new collagen, other cells are busy healing the microchannels and punctured areas, helping to regenerate tissue and repair cell layers.

Because this is a very busy phase with the cells sending collagen to the surface and healing your skin, I would introduce DoSe Multi-Peptide Anti-Ageing Serum as peptides help to support collagen synthesis. This serum can be used alongside the other topicals mentioned previously such as cleansers, alcohol-free toners, and antioxidant moisturisers.

You can also introduce a gentle retinol or retinoid in your evening routine perhaps once every three days such as DoSe Granactive Retinoid Serum. Described as being as effective as prescription retinoids without the side effects, this retinoid helps cell proliferation and repair. If you have a retinol serum higher than 0.25%, do not use until after day 14.

It is recommended to use a vitamin C serum from around the ten-day period. DoSe Triple Vitamin C is an innovative formulation that works to brighten, lighten, provide antioxidant protection, and help an uneven texture. Please patch test on the wrist before using Triple Vitamin C as this is a potent vitamin C serum.

The Maturative Phase

This is the phase from day 14 onwards where the collagen producing cells also produce a robust network of structures to support the new collagen. You can now go back to your entire routine of skincare products and perhaps support your skin nutritionally with a quality food state multivitamin supplement such as DoSe Daily Multivitamins containing Vitamins A,C and E, as well as calcium which is important for skin barrier function.

Additional advice

It is important that you follow the general guidelines as using actives earlier or using them at the wrong time could damage your skin.

Remember to stay out of sunlight at least till day 7 after microneedling.

In all of the above phases of microneedling, use a broad spectrum physical sunscreen as microneedling increases skin’s photosensitivity which can result in unwanted pigmentation.